How To Remove Paint From Aluminum Boat

1. 

   Joined: Feb 2009
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   mosk22rte Junior Fellow member

   If you've seen my other previous threads, you know I'm "restoring" a 12' Klamath aluminum V gunkhole. It's a modest fishing gunkhole that I only look to utilise in freshwater. Actually, what I'm doing is more like "fixing it up" than a true restore.

   Yesterday, I finished removing the balance of the rotted plywood bench seats and the styrofoam, so the hull is substantially stripped downwardly to its skeleton.

   Today, I force per unit area washed the hull. What'due south left are the remains of the factory paint job and a 2d crappy spray paint job applied by a previous owner.

   Today's question: can I do a decent task in my driveway removing the rest of the sometime paint and creating an adequate surface for some new paint? From my reading, information technology seems that in that location'due south a lot of science to properly removing paint from aluminum and prepping the surface for a new coat, and while I desire to do a good job, I don't desire to make this my life'southward piece of work; this is a fishing boat, not the ceiling of the Sistine Chapel.

   I understand that without proper surface prep a new coat of paint won't attach properly, and without removing the old coats I'm not going to become a better event than the previous possessor. I'yard sort of interested in hearing how others have handled this dilemma.

   Finally, has anyone taken a small-scale aluminum boat to a body shop or similar, to have it media blasted and primed? Non certain how much such that would cost, but I hate painting and prep piece of work, so having it washed professionally is somewhat appealing.

   Thanks,

   Jeff

2. 

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   Landlubber Senior Member

   Sad Jeff, at that place are no shortcuts to doing the job properly.

   However, the use of sandpaper and water based acrylics will make the boat look pretty once more and the cost will be minimal. Attempt to utilise a vinyl etch or zinc chromate on the raw alloy before painting.

   In that location is no manner ypou can do the job correctly and not overcapitalise the boat, blasting tin can plate is unremarkably out of the question for both costs and practicality (as well thin).

   Become with the acrylic gloss house paint mate, it will look presentable, toll minimal, and get the encarmine thing back to the water asap.

   I tin go on and on near how to do the task correctly, but the toll will be absurd, even doing everything yourself.

3. 

   Joined: Feb 2009
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   drmiller100 Junior Member

   any automotive paint store will accept "aeroplane pigment removal" chemical.

   spray it on, wait a few minutes, wipe information technology off, then hose it all downwardly.

4. 

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   Lt. Holden Senior Fellow member

   I think DR is on the right rails. And since your gunkhole is welded, if you should have any need to sand, ther are no pesky rivets in the way. Do you have any spray equipment? You will need "cocky-etching" primer to prime the bare metal and it is much cheaper by the quart than in aerosol cans. If the acrylic house pigment volition adhere properly that is the most economical route, aluminum "auto body" paint is very expensive for what you are trying to accomplish.

5. 

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   mosk22rte Junior Member

   Thanks, guys. Didn't think there was a shortcut, per se, merely trying to find the best style to do this given my situation.

   Hmmm...I have a decent air compressor just no spray gun, though the cheaper ones aren't too expensive, IIRC. Not sure how much skill I'd demand to use i, but I assume what I'm trying to do isn't too difficult. Still, I may need to telephone call around to some friends and see if I can call in a favor or two.

   Whatever other tips/suggestions? The ones offered so far are helpful.

   -Jeff

6. 

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   Lt. Holden Senior Member

   A good, inexpensive, HVLP (loftier volume low pressure) spray gun I have used for 6 years is a Porter-Cable that I paid around $70 for; I' ll bank check on the model number. Spray painting isn't hard, read the paint mfr.'s instructions carefully and adjust your settings on a piece of cardboard; note that you may have to alter the settings on vertical surfaces to avoid runs.

7. 

   Joined: Nov 2003
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   PAR Yacht Designer/Builder

   Hire a soda ash blaster and remove the paint without harming the aluminum. A good washing after and y'all're set up for pigment prep.

8. 

   Joined: Feb 2009
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   Red Dog New Member

   Hi Jeff

   I had my aluminium power catamarans painted and it became "like new".

   I took it to the local sand equalizer $400, then straight to the paint shop done with 2 pack paint ... flake expensive simply the boat is valued now at $35k compared with $20K before.

   It is a big boat just with aluminium you can rejuvinate them relatively easily.

   Prices are obviously Australian, only if your hull is sound, information technology may exist worth the endeavour.

   Geoff

9. 

   Joined: May 2009
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   LadyT-Bird New Fellow member

   I am a 59 yr. former woman. Terminal week I bought a 14 ft. aluminum boat that had several former chipping paint jobs on information technology. I went to Home Depot and got 2 cans of Klean Strip (8.99 ea.) Wait for the ones that take the free spray bottles fastened. Sprayed on sides, and brushed on area under lip. Waited the 15 min. suggested, then used my power washer to rinse off paint. I was amazed. It took pigment off to the blank aluminum. The only problem I encountered, nether some of the layers in that location were plastic #'s stuck on. I used razor to remove these, and sprayed these spots again. Power done and ALL pigment was gone. Then I used Simple Green direct out of the bottle and done the boat. Then power washed again. My boat looks similar a new aluminum gunkhole. I think I volition apply an aluminum shine and leave it as is. It actually took the paint off. Expert Luck

10. 

    Joined: Nov 2003
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    PAR Yacht Designer/Builder

    If y'all really want to brand the aluminum look good, have a buffer to information technology. You can go a near mirror finish if yous and so desire, with just elbow grease (okay buffer grease). Conversely, you could take it to an automotive detail shop (where they buff up cars) had have them do it. Buffing does require some skill, some chemicals and of course a buffer. If the aluminum is left to the elements, it will oxidize, develop a chalky coating and go quite dull and change color, quite a bit. Buffed and well maintained wax volition prevent this. You lot could too clear coat the aluminum once you get it looking practiced.

11. 

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    Brent Swain Fellow member

    A friend, who worked on aluminium boats all his life, including America's cup boats, said he found the just reliable way to get paint to stick to aluminium was a lite sandblasting. He tried "Compose " primer on his ain boat and establish it softer than than the epoxy he put over it. He said the epoxy over sandblasted decks worked much ameliorate.
    Brent

12. 

    Joined: Apr 2009
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    fasteddy106 Junior Member

    Brand sure you lot stay away from anything with steel in it to remove the paint. It will embed in the aluminum and screw upwards your topcoat. You can become a 2 part epoxy from any marine supply house one time you clean off the sometime paint and wash it properly. Be sure to stay with aluminum specific prep cleaners and primers. For a peak coat use the real stuff, the divergence in price isn't worth doing the job twice, get a marine pigment suitable for your needs. For howto, you tin can become to Jamestown Distributors spider web site, be certain to put aside some fourth dimension though, the amount of info there tin can be obsessing for anyone interested in DYI projects.

13. 

    Joined: Mar 2007
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    mudman Inferior Fellow member

    I tin't believe no one has mentioned Alum-brite. Strip the pigment with a paint stripper and and then ALUM-BRITE before pigment. Puts a dainty profile on the aluminum. Very corrosive.

    Trick is to not let the Alum-brite dry. Just put it on there and wait a few minuites, and then pressure wash it off. The pigment will stick to the profile very very well.

14. 

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    MikeJohns Senior Member

    Sodium hydroxide (NaOH), too known as lye and caustic soda cleans finish surface etches aluminium very well. Almost of the commercial products are but NaOH with a make proper name. Dissolve the caustic soda into water and paint brush on. Wash with water to stop the etching.

16. 

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    stextor New Member

    Your determination and results

    mosk22rte, Your postal service summed up nicely the work I am now tasked with. May I ask a few followup questions?

    1 What were the methods y'all decided on to remove the pigment, prime it and paint it? Mentioning brand names are skillful with me

    ii. How did information technology plough out?

    iii. Whatever tricks? Lessons learned? What was the near hard office?

    Thanks

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